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Bulbs: Nature's Gift of Colour Through the Seasons

Oh, the joy of bulbs! We've always found there's something quite magical about these little packages of promise. Pop them in the ground, wait a few months, and suddenly your garden bursts into life with the most glorious colours. From the first snowdrops peeking through the frosty soil to gladioli standing tall in the summer sunshine, bulbs truly are one of gardening's greatest pleasures.

Our first experience with bulbs was planting some daffodils along our garden path. We remember the thrill of seeing those green shoots emerge after winter, followed by those cheerful yellow trumpets announcing that spring had arrived. What made it even more satisfying was how little effort it took for such a spectacular reward!

If you're new to growing bulbs, it's really quite straightforward once you know the basics. Spring-flowering varieties like daffodils and crocuses need planting in autumn, while summer showstoppers such as dahlias and lilies go in during spring. Most bulbs absolutely love well-drained soil and a sunny spot that gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. This makes them perfect for both garden beds and containers - we have them dotted all around my garden and even on the patio in pots.

In this guide, we'll share everything we've learned about planting bulbs successfully over the years. We'll look at choosing the best quality bulbs (believe us, it makes a difference!), getting the planting depth just right, and timing your planting for the best results. We'll also share some of our favourite tips for caring for your bulbs to ensure they come back year after year, getting better each time. By the end, you'll be all set to create your own beautiful seasonal displays that will brighten your garden from late winter right through to autumn.
 

Getting to Know Your Bulbs: Types and When They Flower


We find it fascinating that what we commonly call 'bulbs' actually cover several different types of clever little food-storage organs that plants use to survive their dormant periods. Understanding these different types and when to plant them has been absolutely crucial to our success with bulbs over the years.
 


The Different Types of Bulbs in Your Garden

When we first started gardening, we assumed all bulbs were the same! How wrong we were. There are actually four main types:
 
True bulbs are what most of us picture when thinking of bulbs - those rounded, pointed structures with a flat bottom where the roots emerge. If you cut one open, you'll see they're made up of layers, rather like an onion. Daffodils, tulips, hyacinths and lilies all fall into this category.

Corms look quite similar to true bulbs at first glance but have only one or two growing points on top. We always remember crocuses and gladioli are corms because they both start with the same letter as 'corm'! A little memory trick we use.

Tubers are either swollen roots (like dahlias) or swollen stem bases (such as cyclamen). Unlike true bulbs, they don't have that distinctive pointed shape. Our dahlia tubers always remind us a bit of a cluster of small potatoes when we lift them in autumn.

Rhizomes grow horizontally at or just below the soil surface. Bearded irises are classic rhizomes - we remember the first time we planted them, we were surprised they sat almost on top of the soil rather than beneath it. Lily-of-the-valley and cannas also grow from these elongated stem structures.
 
Although these structures look quite different from one another, they're all doing the same clever thing – storing food when the plant goes dormant, typically after flowering.


Spring and Summer Flowering Bulbs - What's the Difference?

Spring-flowering bulbs generally come from parts of the world with cold winters and dry summers. This includes all our familiar favourites, such as crocus, daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, grape hyacinths (muscari), and fritillaria. These hardy bulbs have evolved protective scales and a "tunic" skin that shields them from frost through winter.
 
 Summer-flowering bulbs, on the other hand, hail from warmer climates like South America and South Africa. They love warm temperatures and humidity and need at least 13 degrees Celsius to start growing. Our summer garden wouldn't be the same without dahlias, begonias, gladioli, lilies, calla lilies, and crocosmia.

A handy tip we use for remembering when to plant summer bulbs: they should go into the ground at approximately the same time you'd move tomato plants outdoors.
 
When to Plant for the Best Displays

For reliable spring displays that will make your neighbours green with envy, we've found these planting schedules work best:
Autumn planting (September-October): Most spring-flowering bulbs should be planted by mid-September to give them time to develop strong roots before winter sets in. This includes daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, snowdrops, and fritillarias.
Late autumn planting (October-November): Tulips actually benefit from later planting, ideally in November. This timing helps them avoid tulip fire, a nasty fungal disease that thrives in warm, damp conditions.

Spring planting (April-May): We plant our summer-flowering bulbs after the last frost has passed. This includes lilies, dahlias, cannas, crocosmia, gladioli, and begonias.

Late summer planting (August): Some autumn-flowering bulbs, such as nerines and colchicums, should be planted by late summer.

For a continuous display throughout the year, we like to incorporate bulbs from each flowering period. We've learnt the hard way that planting too late often results in poor flowering or plants coming up "blind" (without flowers) in the first year.

Most bulbs thrive in sunny locations with well-draining soil, although specific varieties suit other conditions, including shade and damp soil. We always read the packet information before purchasing to ensure we can provide the right growing environment for guaranteed spectacular blooms.


Choosing Quality Bulbs - The Foundation of Success


We've learned over the years that buying quality bulbs is like setting the stage for a successful garden performance. No matter how good your soil or how perfect your planting technique is, if you start with poor-quality bulbs, the results will always be disappointing. Let us share what we've discovered about selecting the best bulbs and where to find them.
 
What makes a good bulb?

Size really does matter when it comes to bulbs! Larger specimens typically produce stronger plants with more impressive flowers. When we are shopping for true bulbs and corms, we always check their circumference - the bigger the measurement, the better the results you're likely to get. For rhizomes like irises, we look for multiple growth points or "eyes" as these indicate a plant that will produce more sprouts, stems and, ultimately, more flowers.

Firmness is absolutely crucial. A healthy bulb should feel solid and heavy for its size. We always give them a gentle squeeze - they should resist pressure without giving way. If you find soft or mushy spots, that's a warning sign of rot or decay, and those bulbs are best left on the shelf!

We've made the mistake of not checking bulbs thoroughly before buying them, and we've regretted it later. Now, we always inspect them carefully for visible signs of disease:

  • We avoid any with mouldy patches or black discolouration
  • We never buy bulbs with mushy or sunken areas
  • We pass on those with slimy coatings or dry, shrivelled appearances

 Don't worry if the outer layer of a bulb (the tunic) appears split or loose around planting time. We used to think this meant the bulb was damaged, but actually, it's completely natural and can even encourage rooting. Similarly, some bulbs like tulips normally have small scales on their surface - not a defect at all, just part of their natural appearance.

Here's a simple test we use for questionable bulbs - pop them in a bucket of water. Those that sink are likely viable while floating bulbs should be discarded. As a rule of thumb, we look for bulbs that feel firm, show no signs of sprouting (unless we're planning to plant them immediately), and have no evidence of pest damage like tunnel marks.

Getting Your Garden Ready for Bulb Planting


We believe that proper soil preparation is the absolute foundation of successful bulb growing. Over the years, we've learned that taking the time to create ideal growing conditions before the bulbs even go into the ground can make the difference between a mediocre display and a truly spectacular one. It's a bit like decorating a room - the preparation takes time but is completely worth it for the finished result.

What bulbs are needed from your soil

Most bulbs thrive in soil with a neutral pH of approximately 7.0, which promotes healthy root development. We've found that sandy loam is the absolute ideal growing medium - that perfect balance of clay, sand, silt, and organic matter that provides both nutrients and proper structure.
 
 Good drainage is perhaps the most critical factor for bulb success. We learned this the hard way when we first moved to Lincolnshire and planted some beautiful tulips in a heavy clay patch of the garden. Standing water and soggy conditions caused them to rot, and we were devastated to lose my investment! Sandy loam works so beautifully because it:

  • Provides enough texture for water to drain away
  • Creates lovely air pockets that allow roots to breathe
  • Offers sufficient structure for root development without becoming compacted
Phosphorus plays a crucial role in stimulating root development, but it moves quite slowly through the soil after application. We've found it really beneficial to incorporate phosphorus-rich fertilisers like bone meal into the lower portion of the planting bed before positioning bulbs. 
 
This gives them a good start in life, rather like giving babies their vitamins!

Finding the perfect spot for different bulbs

For most spring-flowering bulbs, a sunny position with well-drained soil creates ideal growing conditions. When we talk about full sun, we mean at least six hours of direct sunlight daily - anything less may result in poor flowering or complete failure to bloom.

Nevertheless, certain bulbs are particularly well-suited to challenging conditions:

For shady gardens: Snowdrops, narcissi, and early-flowering daffodils can thrive in partial shade, particularly under deciduous trees where they receive winter and early spring light before the canopy fills. We have a gorgeous patch of snowdrops under my apple tree that looks absolutely magical in February.

For moist or heavy clay soils, Camassia stands out as an excellent choice, appreciating moisture-retentive conditions while forming substantial clumps over time. Ours have been slowly spreading for years and create a beautiful sea of blue each spring.

For woodland edges: Consider planting hellebores alongside bulbs in very shady areas, as they tolerate shade exceptionally well and complement spring bulbs beautifully. We've found this combination works wonderfully in the darker corners of my garden.

When selecting locations, we always consider our existing planting schemes. We think about how bulbs will interact with established perennials and whether their foliage will complement or clash with neighbouring plants. This foresight ensures our garden maintains visual harmony throughout the growing seasons, rather than looking like a jumbled mess as different plants come and go.


Getting Your Bulbs in the Ground Properly

The way you plant your bulbs really does make all the difference to how well they'll grow and bloom. We've had both spectacular successes and disappointing failures over the years, and much of it comes down to planting technique. Let me share what we've learned about getting it right, whether you're planting in beds or containers.

How deep should you go?
We used to be rather haphazard about planting depths until we noticed some of my bulbs weren't flowering as well as they should. Now we follow this simple rule: plant bulbs two to three times their own height deep. So, if we have a daffodil bulb that's 5cm tall, it goes 10-15cm down into the soil. It's made such a difference to how reliably they flower!

Different bulbs do have their own preferences, though:

  • Tulips: 20cm deep - they really do need this extra depth
  • Daffodils: 15cm deep - about right for these spring favourites
  • Crocuses and muscari: 10cm deep - being smaller, they don't need to go as deep
  • Snowdrops: 5-10cm deep - these delicate little things prefer a shallower planting
  • Fritillaria imperialis: 30cm deep - these giants need plenty of depth
Sometimes it's tricky to know which end should face upwards. We look for the pointed end or any visible shooting tip. If we are really not sure, we just plant the bulb on its side – nature is cleverer than we are, and it will find its way up towards the light!

Giving bulbs their personal space

For natural-looking displays that mimic how bulbs grow in the wild, we space bulbs approximately two bulb widths apart. Our larger bulbs like tulips and daffodils typically need 10-15cm between them, whilst smaller bulbs like crocuses can be placed just 3-5cm apart.

We've found that bulbs in containers can be planted more closely together than those in garden beds - they don't mind being a bit cosy in pots! When we are planting in borders, we always go for generous groups rather than straight lines – at least six bulbs per group creates a much more naturalistic display. The first time we tried this approach rather than planting in regimented rows, the difference was absolutely stunning.

Bulbs in pots and containers
Our patio would be very dull without our container bulbs! When planting in pots, we always choose containers with adequate drainage holes - this is absolutely essential. We cover these with broken pot pieces (we keep a little stash of these from any accidents!) or mesh to prevent soil escaping while allowing water through.

For the compost, we use either high-quality bulb fibre or mix general-purpose compost with horticultural grit to improve drainage. Too much moisture around bulbs in winter is a disaster - we lost a whole pot of expensive tulips one year before we learned this lesson!

We position the bulbs close together but not actually touching, with their pointed ends facing upward. Then we cover with compost, leaving 2-3cm between the soil surface and pot rim to allow for watering. We always water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil around the bulbs.

Containers do need more attention than garden bulbs. In winter, we protect our pots from frost by wrapping them with bubble wrap. We also place chicken wire over the top of our favourite bulb containers to prevent the local squirrels from treating them as their personal buffet! The squirrels in our garden are particularly cheeky and will dig up bulbs given half a chance.

Planting bulbs in garden beds
When we are preparing a bed for bulbs, we start by removing all the weeds and loosening the soil. For our heavier clay areas, we add grit to improve drainage. Then we dig holes to the appropriate depth (using that two to three times rule), position bulbs with pointed ends upward, and firmly replace soil without leaving air gaps.

We always water newly planted bulbs thoroughly to encourage root development, even if rain is forecast. Then we apply a 2-3cm layer of mulch over the planting area to suppress weeds and provide some protection from frost. Last autumn we used some beautiful leaf mould that we'd been creating for two years - the bulbs absolutely loved it, and the spring display was the best we've ever had.

Looking After Your Bulbs Once They're Planted

The work doesn't stop once your bulbs are in the ground! Proper aftercare makes all the difference between an average display and something truly spectacular. We've found that with the right attention to watering, feeding, and protection, you'll not only enjoy beautiful blooms in the first year but encourage your bulbs to return even better in subsequent seasons.

Water Wisely Through the Seasons
Watering properly is absolutely critical for bulb health, though their needs change dramatically throughout the growing cycle. We always water bulbs thoroughly once after planting to settle the soil around them and help them start establishing roots. From then on, their requirements shift with each growth stage.

Our spring-flowering bulbs typically need very little attention during winter months. Once they're tucked up in the garden, they'll receive all the moisture they need from natural rainfall. Container bulbs are a different story altogether - they need much more vigilant monitoring. We check our pots regularly through winter and only water when the compost feels almost completely dry.

As those exciting green shoots start to appear in spring, we increase watering frequency. All bulbs need plenty of moisture while actively growing and for about six weeks after flowering until the foliage begins to die back naturally. Our summer-flowering varieties, like dahlias and gladioli, often need additional watering during hot, dry periods - especially last summer when we had that dreadful heatwave!

Feed for Fabulous Flowers
We've noticed that nutrition has a massive impact on flowering quality. For truly impressive blooms, we feed our bulbs every seven to ten days with a high-potassium fertiliser (we usually use liquid seaweed feed) starting when shoots first appear. We continue this feeding regime until the foliage begins yellowing at the end of the season.

Our more vigorous summer-flowering tubers and rhizomes, particularly dahlias and cannas, benefit from even more intensive feeding. We apply high-potash liquid fertiliser every two weeks during their flowering period, and the results speak for themselves - our dahlias last year were absolutely stunning and kept flowering well into autumn.

For potted daffodils, we've found that regular feeding every 10-14 days with a high-potassium product encourages continued flowering and builds up the bulbs for the following year. It's such a small effort for such a rewarding result!

Keeping Pests and Frost at Bay
In our experience, bulbs face three main threats: pests, frost, and disease. The squirrels and mice in our garden find many bulbs simply irresistible, particularly tulips and crocuses. To deter these crafty creatures, we place chicken wire or mesh over newly planted beds until the shoots are well established. For our containers, we've found that positioning thorny cuttings (holly, rose stems, or hawthorn prunings) around the edges works brilliantly as a natural deterrent.

For frost protection in colder areas of the garden, we apply a 2-4 inch layer of mulch after the ground has frozen. This helps maintain a consistent soil temperature rather than actually providing warmth. One mistake we made in our early gardening days was mulching too early - this just creates a cosy winter home for pests! We learned that lesson the hard way after providing what amounted to a five-star hotel for slugs one winter.

We always keep an eye out for common problems like slugs, snails, aphids and bulb rot, especially during wet conditions. In the heavier clay sections of our garden, we add plenty of grit to each planting hole to improve drainage and prevent rotting. Prevention is definitely better than cure when it comes to bulb care.

 

The extra effort in caring for your bulbs really does pay off. There's nothing quite like the joy of seeing your spring bulbs returning year after year, getting better each time. Our oldest daffodil patch has been going strong for over eight years now, and each spring, it's like greeting old friends when they push through the soil.

Frequently asked questions about bulbs.

When is the best time to plant spring flowering bulbs?

The ideal time to plant spring-flowering bulbs is in autumn, typically between September and November. However, you can continue planting until the ground freezes, which may be as late as December in some areas.

How deep should I plant my bulbs?

As a general rule, plant bulbs are two to three times as deep as their height. For example, if a bulb is 5cm tall, plant it 10-15cm deep. Larger bulbs like tulips should be planted around 20cm deep, while smaller ones like crocuses can be planted at 10cm depth.

Do I need to soak bulbs before planting?

Most spring-flowering bulbs don't require soaking before planting. You can plant them directly into the ground or pots. However, some autumn/winter growing bulbs like anemones and ranunculus may benefit from a few hours' soak in water prior to planting.

How can I protect my bulbs from pests?

To protect your bulbs from pests like squirrels and mice, consider covering newly planted beds with chicken wire or mesh. For container plantings, place thorny cuttings such as holly or rose stems around the edges as a natural deterrent.

What's the best way to feed bulbs for better blooms?

For robust blooms, feed your bulbs every 7-10 days with a high-potassium fertiliser, starting when shoots first appear. Continue this feeding regimen until the foliage begins to yellow at the end of the season. Summer-flowering varieties may benefit from more frequent feeding during their blooming period.

What’s the benefit of buying curated flower bulb collections?

Flower bulb collections are a wonderful way to enjoy a ready-made planting scheme without the guesswork. These themed sets are often designed for continuous flowering or harmonious colour palettes. We once bought a spring ‘Sunrise Collection’ – and it felt like our borders were choreographed to bloom one after another. They’re especially great for beginners or anyone wanting guaranteed beauty without hours of planning.

Can I grow a really amazing collection of bulbs in pots?

Absolutely! We’ve created some of our most amazing collections in patio pots. Containers are perfect for layering different bulb types for a succession of blooms – it’s called the “lasagne method” and it works brilliantly. For example, we’ll plant tulips deep, then daffodils above, and finish with crocuses or anemones near the top. Come spring, it’s a surprise party in a pot!

Why does bulb size matter when creating a standout display?

Larger bulbs generally contain more stored energy, so they produce stronger stems, more flowers, and longer-lasting blooms. When building a truly amazing collection, we always prioritise size – especially for daffodils and tulips. You’ll notice the difference not just in that first year, but in how well they return and multiply over time. It’s a case where bigger really is better!